Personal Comments

Once again, this isnít an attempt to describe the conversion process step by step: For one thing, I wasn't there. Rather, this is an overview of the process.

The front of the car unbolts apart pretty nicely.

The engine comes out from the bottom, after removing the subframe assembly, the driveshaft, etc. (Probably a good time to service the center driveshaft bearing if necessary) (On later cars, observe caution handling the carbon fiber front driveshaft. Apparently it shouldn't be dropped) You'll take the engine out as one unit attached to subframe and the transmission. George used a forklift which is nice if you happen to have one. Probably a floor jack lowered onto a rolling pallet would work See photos for view of the empty engine compartment. George and Cory disconnected the entire hydraulic system, draining the pentosin. I suspect it might be possible to disconnect the hyd pump and tie it off to the side, since youíll re-use it. In any event, you'll have to open up the AC system since you'll either be running all new lines or you'll be replacing the low pressure line from the drier back.

The wiring harness is the most time consuming part of the entire project. I didn't observe Corey's note taking methods in detail, but I would advise taking your time with the harness, and using a stack of manila tie-on labels to label every wire as you disconnect it. You might try laying the two harnesses on the floor side by side, to match up all the identical connections in advance. (Not how we did it) Remove ECU, which is under the dash, roughly behind the glove box. Removal will require some disassembly of the interior. Remove airbag and steering wheel, the center instrument console, the lower instrument panel, the center tunnel cover, etc. George and Cory actually removed the front seats to allow more room to work.

One other suggestion: It is remotely possible that the engine harness chore might be alleviated somewhat by buying the S2 harness. I say slightly, because it is unclear from the fiche whether the 3B S2 came with the automatic climate control system, the biggest hassle.

Despite rigorous study of the two electrical schematics, and a pretty systematic approach to integrating the harnesses, Cory was stymied for some time by the computer which refused to authorize spark to the plugs. Finally, he used a diagnostic analyzer, and discovered two bad connections in a matter of minutes. They used the VDS Pro from Baum Tools. I believe there is a dealer VAG tool that does the same thing.

Regarding orientation of AC compressor and alternator, see above discussion. We opted for the stock CQ/S2 orientation, mainly to avoid disturbing the radiator. The Treadway car did the same. However, the Ben Garrett car, Max at AVS, and the car the 2Bennet brothers will be doing Fall '98 all did/are doing/plan-to-do it the other way, e.g., stock 200 orientation, redo the AC lines, rewire electrical connections and move the radiator. So Iím not at all certain we chose the easiest route. However , I'll bet they are about equal in complication and expense, and I like preserving the stock locations. If you've opted for the stock orientation, attach all accessories now, since access will be tougher later.

It's only common sense to replace all engine mounts and mounting bushings. Before installing the engine, George and Cory left the turbo and wastegate off to improve manageability, but attached most everything else.

Fuel lines: The lines against the firewall required some gentle re-bending, to line up properly. We used one CQ and one 200 braided line because, strangely, the thread dimensions of the pressure coupling on the lower 200 line were different.

In the interest of getting something up on the web, I'm going to stop now. I'll be editing these pages with Ramana as time permits, and the car is sorted out. I'd also like to get George and Corey to contribute.